Rome to Terracina

Today the tracks leave the Via Appia and the Pontine Plain. It will be several days before the tracks return to the Via Appia. When the Roman Empire declined, so did the condition of the canals that drained the Pontine Plain. The swamps returned, as well as the mosquitoes and malaria. Pilgrims began to avoid the flat, direct road and travel parallel to walk on higher ground on the older foothill route.

The day begins in the piazza of Castel Gandolfo (a good place for coffee!) in front of buildings from the Papal Apostolic Palace, which serves as a papal summer residence and is actually part of the Vatican. Its Barberini Gardens were originally the site of a villa of Emperor Domitian and are open to the public except on Sundays (www.mv.vatican.va)

Leaving the piazza, the path joins the Via Pio XI towards Albano. Soon after the bar Le Fratte Ignoranti (on the left) (where the Via della Selvotta turns off to the right), the tracks follow the gated path down into the woods for a pleasant walk above the lake. On the far side of the lake, they lead up and through a tunnel under the Via Della Ariccia. (A flashlight is helpful here--the tunnel is dark and the ground is uneven).

The trail continues through the woods on the other side, with part of the walk on ancient pavers. At a fork in the path, the trail descends steeply downhill, onto the Fontana di Tempesta trail. There's a nice little water tank at the bottom of the first descent, near a cave. The Fontana di Tempesta path winds around with great views of Lake Nemi, until arriving in the town of Nemi, which is a great place to enjoy wild strawberries and cream. In ancient times people in the region considered the lake to be blessed by the Goddess of Fertility and would bathe in its waters. The city, famous for its strawberries, hosts the strawberry festival in early June. From Nemi, the path heads south on Via Nemorense, then turns off into the woods. Following the  tracks through the woods can be a bit challenging. There are multiple choices and it can be difficult knowing which way to go. But the paths are good, and the woods enjoyable. (A less peaceful alternative is to head east from Nemi on Via Nemorense, until reaching the road Via dei Lagi, and walking this into Velletri)

The path runs parallel to the aptly named Via dei Laghi, which leads into the outskirts of Velletri. The Via dei Laghi there meets the Viale Roma which leads the rest of the way into town.