After exiting the ferry, there's a quick walk through customs, and then over a pedestrian bridge into a central plaza. There you will find many people begging, can purchase some lek, and find a bus going to Golem fairly cheaply. It looks as if the path through Durres is walkable but we wouldn't recommend it. Its all urban, and somewhat rugged. People on the bus will be happy to help you get off at the stop in Golem where the tracks begin.
But, by taking the bus we missed out on the opportunity to explore this historic port city. The harbour area especially contains historic sites worth checking out.
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